More Canary Islands (Lobos, Fuerteventura, Tenerife, Gomera, El Hierro)
Nice view of the mountain that Sven hiked up to the top one morning.
We are constantly on the go with our floating home. Here a reflection of us sitting at the helm.
After Lanzarote, we headed to a small island called
Isla de Lobos
Arrived just in time to see the sunset
There is a daily 200 people limit on the island. You can book 4 hour slots online (between 10 am and 6 pm) but nobody seems to care if you have a booking or not. Being on anchor meant, that we could head to the island very early and have this lovely place to ourselves before the tourist boats arrived.
There is only a small group of white fishermen's huts and a "restaurant" on this island.
Dinghy at low tide.
Even though we were the first ones walking this path that morning (we arrived at 8 am), foot imprints of hundreds of people were still visible from the previous day
A lovely man showing us the shell he just found.
Beautiful clean water with many fish.
You can book one of 2 eating slots after 10.20 am but need to advise beforehand what you would like to eat (very simple menu with a few options only). Glad we got a spot as they booked out very quickly. The fish was fresh and delicious. The dessert was a Canary Island speciality called "Polvito urugayo canario" - its a light pudding made from layers of whipped cream, dulce de leche, biscuit crumbs, ground almond and crushed meringue ... "YUM.."
We hiked up the volcano the following morning.
Paddled onshore at first light.. There is a 1,8 metre difference between low and high tide.
We waddled through the water at low tide followed by an easy paddle back at high tide.
Sven walking up the volcano.
It is so worth it to get up early and feel on top of the world.
Reminds me of Australia...
Love the volcano at the back (which is on the next island Fuerteventura)
Fuerteventura
Another Lunar Landscape!
Our first anchorage was Playa Pozo Negro, a small village with only a few houses but two places serving food until 8 pm.
Our boat can bee seen in the bay in front of a black and sandy coloured beach.
The sun greeting us in the morning.
We visited the hotel in Las Playitas from our next anchorage. We could not believe how fit and slim everyone looked, until we realised, that it serves as a sports hotel offering various sports and training programs. The food looked healthy, so we decided to get in on the action....even though it was only for eating some breakfast with them. We did, however, put on a fresh T-shirt and some nice shoes!
The only real green grass I have seen so far is on the hotel golf course (first picture).
We did a 12 km hike to the next village and back which lead us up and down bare mountains. This landscape certainly has its beauty but I start to miss some lush green.
We hired a car and explored the island. Headed up North, then to the centre. Will explore the south when we anchor there.
There are of course some lovely sandy beaches (black and yellow coloured). Fuerteventura also has a so called Popcorn beach and instead of rocks, pebbles, or sand, this beach is actually covered in popcorn...
What we found strange was a digger being busy making a track in the sand, probably for the hotel guests....?
Visited volcano Calderon Hondo. Yellow arrow shows Sven walking and shows how big this volcano actually is!
We got greeted by many curious and cute squirrels. Seems the first pair were brought in from Africa by a local as house pets... they escaped and started a big colony which causes a problem for the native fauna. These squirrels brought back nice memories. We, (Caroline's family) used to have them as pets when we were little.
Sven reflecting on some lava rocks.
Continued our road trip. The roads are surprisingly good and wind up and down the mountains.....
Sign of a jumping deer and a cow crossing the road? Sorry for the bad pictures (Sven sometimes thinks he is Niki Lauda.). But judging from this unfertile land.... it simply cannot be!. All I have seen so far are birds, squirrels, 3 goats and some crabs. Maybe they could not crossing goat signs ?
We bought some fresh food items and paddled back to the boat.
Sailed to the South of Fuerteventura from where headed to Gran Canaria the following morning.
Walked to the light house (Faro Punta de Jandia) and tried a Canary island dish called Gallegada (fish, potatoes, capsicum, garlic stew
We didn't eat this one!
We had some interesting nights in the Canary islands, not with nice "rocking you to sleep kind of waves", but several nights like riding a bull!
We also started thinking about installing a lightening protector since several sailing acquaintances had their boats hit by lightening (electronics hit, fire or hole in the hull). This does cross your mind when you have an 18 metres high mast sticking into the sky... The solution we like is very expensive and the boat needs to come out of the water and the mast dismantled...but there are also other things you cannot protect against. We read in our Sea survival book that some boats have collided with whales in the middle of nowhere and sank. But then again, a car accident is probably more likely than hitting a sleeping whale.
We left a 4 am the next day to arrive in
Gran Canaria before dark. Unfortunately it already gets dark by 8 pm.
Pink clouds, looking like cotton candy, greeted us in the morning. We will explore Gran Canaria at a later stage since we will depart from Las Palmas/Grand Canaria to head to Cape Verde.
Saw some white beaches and a flat rainbow shinning across the water.
and some more interesting rock walls.
In our next bay watching the rock changing colours as the sun sets.
A few selfies from us enjoying being alone in Playa de Tasarte (last bay in Gran Canaria) before heading across to Tenerife.
It was a 44 nm sail from Grand Canaria to our anchorage in Tenerife.
Tenerife
Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands,
We were very lucky to get a place in the Marina. They had just received a cancelation when we rang. Svens sister and her husband will arrive in a few days and we wanted to do some domestic chores beforehand.
Thanks goodness for floating platoons . Low and high tide next to our boat.
Hired a car for 3 days and enjoyed exploring a small part of Tenerife (we will definitely come back to do some more on our way back to Gran Canaria). It is actually funny that the European car rental companies often ask if we are able to drive an automatic car. This is the pure opposite from Australia, where they have to ask if you are able (or have the license) to drive a manual car!
Sven drove to the Teide National Park to hike the dormant Volcano (Teide-Pico Viejo stratovolcano). It sits at an impressive 3718m and is the highest peak on Spanish soil. Rising 7,500 m above the ocean floor, it is regarded as the world's third-tallest volcanic structure.
During his 5 hours uphill, Sven had to climb 1500 m in height (and of course all back down again). It was a tuff hike but right up his alley since he loves challenges and does not want to age (or grow up)!
The environment is spectacular and we will do some more hikes in the Teide National Park.
We explored the national Park of Anaga on the following day (north of the island). The nature here is the pure opposite from other volcanic islands we have visited and from the Teide National park mentioned above. Its so satisfying to see GREEN again - it is good for the soul.
We enjoyed the drive up the mountains, went for a walk and nice lunch.
So grateful that Sven drove.....some of the roads are very narrow and winding up and down the mountains.
We picked up Svens Sister Bärbel and her husband Micha and headed to La Gomera.
La Gomera
La Gomera is the second-smallest of the main islands in Spain’s Canary Island chain. It has craggy volcanic mountains and is crisscrossed with hiking trails. In higher altitudes, dense forests of ferns and moss-covered trees grow in the mists of the Garajonay National Park. We hired a car for 2 days but could only use it for one (we were unable to get off the boat for a day due to big swells and strong winds).
You can see the masts of the 2 boats next to us and the swell breaking at the beach.
A nice hike and exploring the island (once we could leave the boat...)
The Canary Islands were of vital importance in Christopher Columbus's voyage to the New World (below is a statue of him) . It was the last port in Europe that the vessels set sail from and he used it as a reprovisioning point.
Our drive into the mountains. We saw lots and lots of banana plantations.
Anchored in Playa de Medo, Playa de Santiago, Cala Cantera and Valle Gran Rey.
Used our stand up Paddle board to get onshore and did various hikes from our anchorages.
From Cala Cantera we hiked up up steep and colourful mountains to a restaurant at the very top. I think Micha and I (Caroline) would have turned back if it wasn't for the lunch incentive!
First it was very hot, then started to rain and finally got cold at the top. A lovely rainbow formed and you can see Sven walking under it.
Saw lots of goats.
Our boat in the bay.
Playa de la Centera, with its fascinating abandoned tuna fish factory.
The abondened tuna fish factory with our boat at the back.
Our next anchorage at Valle Gran Rey (Playa de Arenas) with gusts of 40 knots turning the boats in all sorts of directions.
A last minute change of mind to visit El Hierro (we were worried that we may not get good weather windows to head back to Grand Canaria as the trade winds have set in).
El Hierro
It would have been a shame to leave this stunning ilsand out. This island has it all from the bare to the lush. Hired another car and the 4 of us explored the island. We decided to leave the boat in the small Port of Estaca, where you have to check in with the local police Our visitors will take the Ferry from here in a few days.
Our fist stop was Tamaduste, a coastal town with a natural rock pool followed by a hike through the volcanic landscape.
A guy fishing from the top of the cliff (first picture below)? Can you spot him?
Another worthwhile stop was Pozo de las Calcosas with traditional El Hierro houses (built from volcanic stone). Originally built for fisherman but they are still owned by locals and used as summer houses. There are 2 beautiful natural pools in front of the houses.
Mirador de la Pena with its restaurant at the top of the cliff. We are having coffees and beer.
We visited various other places but finished the day off with El Sabinar which is an enchanted forest with its ancient junipers. The wind has twisted their trunks over the years. This tree has become one of the most photographed spots on the island!
The church Nuestra Senora de los Reyes was erected in 1577 to house the statue of the Virgin of los Reyes which joins a procession every 4 years.
We were above then in the clouds!
The next day, we visited the rest of the island.
Early morning at our first lookout
Loved the various patterns on the bark of the trees!
We were amazed by the clean Pine forests! There were no dead trees and no branches lying around. Just beautiful.
We did the la Llania trail walk which leads through contrasting scenery from fern forests and moss covered branches, past the Bailedero Las Brujas (Dance hall of the witches)
reaching the Hoya de Fireba, a volcanic crater.
the vulcanic crater.
Reflection time. We are so lucky.
El Hierro and the Canaries have become bases for migration out of Africa. Some colourful refugee boats (we counted 29) in La Resting. So much courage, determination and spirit from these mostly young people. Hopefully they find a happier life away from conflicts, civil unrest, environmental disasters and oppressive regimes.
Las Playas - amazing old path down to the Rock.
Roque de la Bonanza
After seeing large pineapple fields decided to buy a pineapple.
We have been eating these 2 saues called Mojo verde an rojo on all the canary islands.
They are made with coriander, cumin, garlic, vinegar and olive oil. The red one has spices and red bell peppers. They are delicious.
Goodbye Bärbel and Micha, it was great to have you with us on board.
Early start for us tomorrow morning - we are heading back to La Gomera.
❤️Sending our love to family and friends ❤️
Below is our interactive map of all anchorages and marina stops to date (road trips are not shown on the map).
Below is our live position of our boat
Below is a our new Predict Wind location of our boat
Wow! I had no idea how large the Canary Islands are. Impressive hikes! xx
Absolutely stunning photos! Thank you for sharing and stay safe! See you soon!
And your lifetime adventures continue.......thank you again for another enjoyable blog...it seems that the landscapes and wind patterns are so varied in the Canary Islands ...it must be nice to catch up with family and friends from time to time. Enjoy your onward journey! Take care xx Noel🌼